This section is written to help you tackle any problems that you may encounter.These are just some of the more common problems that can occur. I’m assuming you’re using a quality nutrient for the crop that you are growing. I haven’t addressed nutrient deficiencies here as you can find them in the nutrient section of the book. Keep in mind, however, that nutrient deficiencies are extremely rare if you are using a reputable brand of nutrient. Anyway, let’s get into it!
There are several things that could be going on here.
Often it is very hard to analyse what exactly is the problem (several things could be going on). For this reason a holistic approach to the situation is desirable.
Dump the existing nutrient and make up a fresh batch of nutrient at 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended strength at which you would normally run your plants. Add a fungicide to the water/nutrient such as Fongarid.
Other products are also suitable for tackling root disease
Use CX NILNAT a powerful Beneficial Bacteria for dealing with SCARID FLY LARVAE PROBLEMS which lead to ROOT DISEASE and generally Manifests AS DEFICIENCIES
After dealing with Scarid fly larvae you need to fongarid to deal with the infections that they leave!
Depending on the stage of the crop some products may be more suitable than others. Check that your water temperature is maintained at 20- – 23 degrees C.
After a week dump the nutrient and this time don’t add the FONGARID. Wait 4-7 days before adding preventives such as friendly bacteria like
Each time you dump the tank add friendly bacteria.
This is usually caused by root disease. What’s basically happening is that the plant is suffering from major deficiencies. Firstly, check the root systems of the plants. If they are brown this will be a result of either Pythium, Phytophthora, or oxygen starvation (oxygen starvation is the most likely cause). Again, a holistic approach is necessary.
Use Air Pumps Like AQUA ONE 9500 – and AIR STONES in the Barrel
There are a couple of possibilities here. Firstly,you may have a fungal/mildew problem. A spray with a fungicide will take care of this.
Secondly, you may have an aphid problem. Aphids breed very quickly given the right environment. They are tiny, so they often appear as a mass of white spots. It is handy to have some form of magnifying device to have a closer look at the spots. If indeed they are aphids, a treatment with a sucking insect spray such as CX SPRAY SAFE will take care of the problem. If the plants are in flower, an organic spray may be more suitable.
Generally this is causes by the plants being switched down (18 hours to 12 hours etc) too late.That is, the plants were too big when you switched them down. .
Another reason is that the genetics of the plant may not be ideal for an indoor situation. This isn’t likely, however, if you know the origins of the plant and whether it is suitable for indoor growing.
Extreme stress to the plant can, in some cases, cause unusual things to happen. Overactive gibberellins may possibly due to heat etc
As an emergency measure should your plants be getting away on you:
Anti-gibberellins can be used very effectively to control plant height.
USE QUICKTURN FOR AMAZING STRETCH STOP AND FLOWER SET
Use H&G DRIP CLEAN
Tip burning usually comes down to excess nutrient salts.You should be flushing the salts out of your system every 7-10 days unless using H&G Drip Clean!!! then it can be every 2-4 weeks!!!
Always flush with PH adjusted water @ 20-23 degrees C.
Another factor that will affect salt levels is the size of your nutrient tank. What happens is that in recycling systems the plants take up water and salts at different rates.The plants will take up far more water than salts.This means that the water volume becomes less and the salts volume becomes more during the course of the day. As a general rule you should have a nutrient tank large enough to ensure its nutrient/water volume decreases by only 10 — 20%.
Also check that your salts meter is working properly. i.e. calibrate it.lf in doubt check it against another meter that you know is working. (Or) ask US to check it for you.
This could be due to too small a nutrient tank. Remember, you want the volume of your nutrient tank to decrease no more than 20%.
This can also be caused by slack maintenance practices.You possibly need to be keeping a closer eye on your nutrient tank.This may mean ensuring that you top up the tank and adjust the pH daily. Particularly where recycling systems are concerned, EC and pH can be pretty unstable due to plant uptake of water and salts.The plants will generally take up a lot more water than salts.This can mean that the nutrient can become very strong. As a result of this the plants can burn due to high salt levels.
Leaves curling upwards can be caused by incorrect pH levels. It is generally a sign of nutrient deficiency (particularly Calcium). Incorrect pH can play havoc with nutrient uptake and cause deficiencies. Check the pH of the nutrient and that your meter is calibrated and working correctly.Also check your EC and your EC meter to ensure that you are giving your plants enough food.
This can be caused by over fertilization. However, again, this could be related to a deficiency. Check that the EC and the pH are within range. Ensure that your meters are working correctly and that they are calibrated.
Leaf purpling is fairly common towards the end of flowering.This is generally due to a Phosphorous deficiency. Towards the end of the plants life it can have problems up-taking Phosphorous (and Potassium among other things). Increasing the pH to 6.4 — 6.5 can help somewhat with this. Using additional P-K products can also help.Try taking the pH to 6.5 and using a P-K product
(such as ROCK RESINATOR or BASS or HEAVYWEIGHT POTASH etc).
Flower rot is caused by Botrytis (also known as Grey Mould). Botrytis is caused by fungal pathogens. Its control really comes down to preventive management, as once Botrytis has established itself in your crop it is almost impossible to control. If you identify Botrytis in your crop it is likely to be in late flower; this makes it extremely hard to treat as it is undesirable to have traces of treatment agents left residually in your crop.The general rule tends to be to pull the crop right away, as Botrytis can spread very quickly.
USE BLOOM SILICA TO REDUCE CHANCES OF ROT
In future, prevention is the key. Ensuring that you have adequate airflow around the plants will minimise the risk of Botrytis.
Leaf wilt often signifies excess heat. Particularly while the plants are young and fragile, excess heat can cause the leaves to wilt. Put a thermometer at plant height, under the lights to check the temperature around the plants. If you don’t have a min/max thermometer, check the temperature 2 hours after the lights come on and every three hours thereafter until the lights turn off.
Check your light timers. Lights staying on can cause all kinds of dramas. If your light timers are OK, check the root systems of the plants. If they are brown this will be the problem.
Flowers getting Offshoots
Light getting to the plants during their sleep period is often the cause of this. Are you staying out of the room during lights out? Are the light timers working correctly? Are the plants getting 12 hrs of uninterrupted sleep?
Another cause for this can be excess heat around the plants. Check the air temperature.
High temperatures can cause all types of problems to the plants. For instance, your medium and/or your nutrient could be getting too warm which can lead to oxygen starvation in the plants’ root zones. Also, high ambient air temperatures greatly affect plant growth.The plants can become stressed and susceptible to disease.
Try increasing airflow by adding extra air-in and exhaust fans.
You can also purchase cooling devices for lamps such as
The addition of an air cooler/humidifier in the environment can also help. What needs to be considered here is that humidified air conditioners increase relative humidity levels, which reduces transpiration, which reduces leaf cooling. The key is to use a humidifier and at the same time, increase airflow (via more exhaust etc).
A better option is to use a refrigerated air conditioner. However, I recognise that this can be an expensive option. Therefore, a humidifier/cooler may be a more viable option for you.
Where water is too warm (above 25 degrees C): If you can move the reservoir outside the room (only if it is cooler outside the room) do so.
You can also freeze bottles of water in plastic drink containers and throw these into the reservoir to bring down the nutrient temperature. Devices are available for water-cooling but they are fairly expensive and energy hungry.
The most common reasons for this are:
This could be a result of many different factors.
These will be primarily environmental.
One factor that can affect your final yield is the age of the lamps that you are using. If, after saying to yourself that you are doing everything to spec, and everything that you did the time before, think back to when you last replaced your lamps. Lamps will burn brightly for over 20,000 hours (in the case of HPS). However, while their lumen output may be reasonable, the colour spectrum drops out over time. Because’of this, the red spectrum that stimulates hormonal changes in the plant may not be quite what it was when you first purchased the lamps. For this reason, it is advisable that you replace your lamps every 12 months.
USE POWERPLANT RETRO GLOBES FOR BLUE SPECTRUM -AMAZING GROWTH
Many growers replace lamps every third crop.
As I’ve pointed out – plant health and vigour relies on a holistic approach to growing. If your plants are struggling, check and recheck all of the key essential elements (temp, humidity, airflow = carbon dioxide/ oxygen, light, and nutrition/uptake).
This is caused by bacteria building up around the hoses etc in the nutrient tank. Sometimes this buildup can be very pronounced.This needn’t be a problem; it will depend on which forms of bacteria are present in your nutrient tank. If you are using friendly bacteria you needn’t worry. If you are using a sterilising agent such as hydrogen peroxide this bacteria shouldn’t be present. USE OXY PLUS